Craigmillar Castle: Edinburgh’s Other Castle (2026 Guide)
Three miles south-east of the Royal Mile there is a castle where Mary, Queen of Scots spent seventeen days in 1566, and where a group of her nobles put their names to a document agreeing to dispose of her husband. It is called Craigmillar Castle, it is a remarkably well-preserved medieval castle, and most visitors to Edinburgh have never heard of it.
The search results for it are a ticketing stub from Historic Environment Scotland and a run of history sites that will tell you about the Preston family and nothing about how to get there. That is the gap this guide fills: the bus, the walk, what survives and what does not, how it compares with the queue at the castle on the rock, and an honest answer to whether it is worth an afternoon of a short trip. Opening hours and routes below were checked in October 2026.
At a Glance
- Where: Craigmillar Castle Road, Edinburgh, EH16 4SY — about three miles south-east of the city centre. Managed by Historic Environment Scotland.
- Hours (HES prices-and-times page): 1 April – 30 September, daily from 09:30, last entry 16:30, closes 17:00. 1 October – 31 March, daily from 10:00, last entry 15:30 (15:15 from November to January), closes 16:00. Closed 25–28 December and 1–4 January.
- Buses: Lothian buses serve two Craigmillar Castle Road stops, one on Peffermill Road and one on Old Dalkeith Road, and the castle is about a 15-minute walk from either. Check Lothian Buses’ site for the route from where you are staying. Journey time 20–30 minutes from the centre.
- Fare: a Lothian single is £2.40, a City DAY ticket £6.00, and the contactless TapTapCap daily cap is £5.70. Exact change or contactless — drivers give no change.
- Price: adult £7.50 online, £8.50 in person; concession £6 online (£6.80 in person), child £3.50 (£4); free entry for HES members.
- The history that matters: Mary, Queen of Scots stayed here 20 November to 7 December 1566, recovering from illness after the birth of her son. Before she left, the Craigmillar Bond was signed — an agreement among her nobles to be rid of Lord Darnley. He was murdered in February 1567.
- What survives: almost everything. The L-plan tower house of about 1425, all its vaulted floors, the mid-15th-century courtyard wall with corner towers and gun holes, the outer wall of about 1511, a chapel, a dovecot, and a rare P-shaped fishpond described as a nationally significant archaeological garden feature.
- You can go up. Roof-level access gives views over Edinburgh Castle, Arthur’s Seat and the Forth estuary.
- Car park on site, but small, and it fills. Driving from the centre takes about 15 minutes.
- Allow 60–90 minutes on site, plus 25 minutes each way. It is a half-morning, not a day.
How to Get to Craigmillar Castle
This is the question every other page about Craigmillar Castle skips, and it is genuinely the only difficult part of the visit. The castle sits on a low ridge in a public park south-east of the centre, between Craigmillar and Little France, with the Royal Infirmary of Edinburgh nearby — which is useful, because plenty of buses go to the hospital.
| Route | Where it stops | Walk from stop | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lothian bus to Peffermill Road | Craigmillar Castle Road | About 15 minutes | Check Lothian Buses’ site for the route from your stop |
| Lothian bus to Old Dalkeith Road | Craigmillar Castle Road | About 15 minutes | Just as good; take whichever runs from where you are |
| Car | On-site car park | None | 15 min from centre; small car park |
| Walk from Holyrood | — | Roughly an hour, mostly uninteresting suburb | Not worth it |
| Taxi / private hire | Door to door | None | Only if time-pressed; buses are frequent |
Total journey from Princes Street is 20 to 30 minutes depending on traffic on Old Dalkeith Road, which is genuinely bad at rush hour and fine the rest of the day. On the way back, note that the same routes run into town, so you do not need to plan a return — just cross the road. Full fare and ticket detail is in our guide to Lothian buses and trams.
Opening Hours and Tickets
Historic Environment Scotland publishes two seasons for Craigmillar Castle. From 1 April to 30 September it opens daily at 09:30, with last entry at 16:30 and closing at 17:00. From 1 October to 31 March it opens daily at 10:00 and closes at 16:00, with last entry at 15:30 in October, February and March and at 15:15 from November to January. The castle is closed from 25 to 28 December and from 1 to 4 January. Note that the winter last entry is early — arriving at 15:20 in November means you do not get in.
Admission is cheaper than most people expect. An adult ticket is £7.50 online or £8.50 in person. Concessions are £6 online (£6.80 in person), children £3.50 (£4), and entry is free for HES members and Explorer Pass holders. Check the price on the HES page before you travel, and be aware that Historic Environment Scotland warns generally about lookalike ticket-selling websites for Scottish castles — buy from HES or at the gate.
The honest verdict on tickets: unlike Edinburgh Castle, Craigmillar does not sell out and does not need booking weeks ahead. Turn up. If you already hold an HES membership or Explorer Pass for Edinburgh Castle, Stirling or Linlithgow, this is a free extra stop and the calculation changes entirely.
The Murder Plot: What Actually Happened Here in 1566
Mary, Queen of Scots came to Craigmillar twice — in September 1563, and then for the visit that matters, from 20 November to 7 December 1566. She had given birth to the future James VI in June and was ill through the autumn; Craigmillar was somewhere out of the city to recover.
Her marriage to Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley had collapsed. He was widely loathed at court, he had been implicated in the murder of Mary’s secretary David Rizzio earlier that year, and the political problem of what to do with him had become urgent. During the seventeen days at Craigmillar, a group of nobles put their names to what is known as the Craigmillar Bond — an agreement to be rid of Darnley. The signatories included Mary’s Secretary of State, William Maitland of Lethington, and the earls of Bothwell, Argyll and Huntly.
The careful phrasing matters here, and it is where cheap history writing goes wrong. Mary had made her unhappiness with Darnley entirely clear. She was not a party to the conspiracy. Whether the bond was made with her knowledge is precisely the question that has never been settled, and anyone who tells you flatly that Mary ordered her husband’s death at Craigmillar is telling you more than the evidence supports.
Darnley was murdered in February 1567, at Kirk o’ Field in Edinburgh. Mary married Bothwell within three months. Within a year she had been forced to abdicate and was a prisoner in England. The seventeen days at Craigmillar are, in a real sense, where the reign turned — which makes standing in the courtyard a considerably more interesting experience than the drive out suggests.
Two mature yew trees stand at the castle entrance, traditionally said to have been planted in Mary’s honour. Like most such traditions, it is unprovable. The trees are real and they are old; the attribution is a story.
What Survives: A Walk Round the Castle
The reason Craigmillar Castle is worth the bus is not the history. It is that almost all of it is still standing, including the vaulted floors, which means you walk through rooms rather than looking at footprint outlines in the grass. Very few Scottish castles of this age give you that.
The tower house (about 1425)
The core of the castle: an L-plan tower house of four storeys, roughly 52 feet by 38 with a projecting wing, begun by the Preston family in the late 14th century and complete by around 1425. Inside are the great hall, storage vaults and private chambers, connected by turnpike stairs. You can climb to roof level, and you should — the view takes in Edinburgh Castle on its rock, Arthur’s Seat, and the Forth estuary beyond, which is the single best argument for coming.
The inner courtyard wall (mid-15th century)
Sir William Preston enclosed the tower with a curtain wall with round corner towers and gun holes — early artillery defence, and the reason the castle looks the way it does from a distance. It is thought to have drawn on continental models rather than Scottish precedent. A wall walk survives along two sides, which is a rare thing to be allowed to walk on.
The east range (1550s) and the outer courtyard (about 1511)
The outer wall, added around 1511, encloses a much larger area than the castle proper. Inside it are the ruins of the domestic buildings put up in the 1550s to provide better accommodation — this is roughly the castle Mary would have known — together with a chapel in the east garden, its walls clearly readable, and a dovecot in the north-east corner, still busy with pigeons, which is a very direct illustration of how a medieval household fed itself in winter.
The P-shaped fishpond
The most easily missed thing on the site and one of the most unusual. A fishpond in the outer grounds is cut in the shape of the letter P — for Preston — and is described as a nationally significant archaeological garden feature because so few designed medieval garden elements of this kind survive anywhere in Scotland. It reads far better from the tower roof than from ground level. Look for it while you are up there.
A word on the tunnels: Craigmillar is often said to have medieval tunnels or a souterrain running from the castle. Nothing of the kind forms part of the visitor route described by Historic Environment Scotland, so treat the tunnel stories as folklore.
From the Prestons to the Ruin: 600 Years in One Table
| Date | What happened |
|---|---|
| Late 14th century | The Preston family, feudal barons of Craigmillar, begin building |
| About 1425 | The L-plan tower house is complete |
| Mid-15th century | Sir William Preston adds the courtyard wall with corner towers and gun holes |
| About 1511 | The outer courtyard wall is built |
| 1544 | Burned by an English force during the Rough Wooing; subsequently repaired |
| 1550s | The east range is built for better accommodation |
| September 1563 | Mary, Queen of Scots’ first stay |
| 20 Nov – 7 Dec 1566 | Mary convalesces here; the Craigmillar Bond is signed |
| February 1567 | Darnley is murdered at Kirk o’ Field |
| 1660 | Sir John Gilmour buys the castle; modernises the west range in the 1660s |
| Early 18th century | The Gilmours move out to Inch House |
| By 1775 | The castle is a ruin |
| 1886 | Queen Victoria visits, prompting restoration work |
| 1946 | Taken into state care; today a scheduled monument in HES guardianship |
Craigmillar Castle vs Edinburgh Castle: An Honest Comparison
These are not substitutes, and anyone telling you to skip Edinburgh Castle for Craigmillar is being contrarian for its own sake. They are different experiences that happen to share a word.
| Edinburgh Castle | Craigmillar Castle | |
|---|---|---|
| Getting there | Walk up from the Royal Mile | 20–30 min bus, or 15 min drive |
| Booking | Timed entry; regularly sells out well in advance | None needed; walk up |
| Opening | Daily from 09:30 | 09:30 summer, 10:00 winter; early last entry in winter |
| Crowds | Among the busiest paid attractions in the UK | You may have the roof to yourself |
| What you see | Honours of Scotland, St Margaret’s Chapel, One O’Clock Gun, military museums | An almost complete medieval castle you walk through, vaults and all |
| Time needed | Half a day, realistically | A much shorter visit |
| Best for | The national story, first-time visitors | Architecture, Mary Stuart, quiet, repeat visitors |
The honest verdict: if you have two days in Edinburgh, go to Edinburgh Castle and skip Craigmillar. If you have four or more, or you have been to Edinburgh before, or you have children who would rather climb something than read a label, Craigmillar is one of the best-value half-mornings in the city — and considerably more interesting to walk around than its more famous neighbour, because nobody stops you going anywhere. Practical detail on the big one is in our guides to Edinburgh Castle tickets, prices and hours and the best time to visit to avoid the queues.
Making a Half-Day of It
Sixty to ninety minutes on site plus travel leaves the rest of a morning open, and Craigmillar sits in a part of Edinburgh most visitors never reach. Three ways to build it out:
- Craigmillar plus Duddingston. Head back towards the city and stop at Duddingston Village — a 12th-century kirk, Dr Neil’s Garden through the kirkyard (created in 1963 and free), and the Sheep Heid Inn with its skittle alley. Two genuinely quiet historic places in one morning.
- Craigmillar plus Arthur’s Seat. You have just looked at the hill from a castle roof; go and climb it. Routes, timings and the honest difficulty assessment are in our Arthur’s Seat hike guide.
- Craigmillar plus the Southside. Newington and the Southside sit between the castle and the centre, with the eating and the museums the castle’s own neighbourhood does not have. Pick a bus back that stops there; Lothian Buses’ site shows which.
Practical Warnings
- Winter last entry is 15:15 from November to January. In October, February and March it is 15:30, and from October to March the site shuts at 16:00. This catches people out more than anything else about the visit.
- It is a ruin, not a museum. Stone stairs, uneven floors, no lift, exposed roof level. Sensible shoes; not a good wet-weather choice with small children.
- There is no substantial café. Eat before you go or plan to eat back in town.
- The car park is small. On a sunny weekend it fills; the bus is the more reliable option.
- Buy tickets from HES or at the gate. Historic Environment Scotland has warned about lookalike ticket-selling sites for Scottish castles.
- Book online if you can. An adult ticket costs £7.50 on the HES site and £8.50 in person, so the saving covers a fair part of your bus fare.
Opening seasons, bus stops and fares checked October 2026. Confirm the current admission price and any seasonal closures on the HES page before travelling.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Craigmillar Castle worth visiting?
Yes, if you have more than two days in Edinburgh or you have been before. Almost the entire castle survives, including its vaulted floors, so you walk through real medieval rooms rather than looking at foundations, and you can climb to roof level for a view over Edinburgh Castle, Arthur’s Seat and the Forth. On a weekday out of season you may have the place largely to yourself. On a first, short trip, Edinburgh Castle is the better use of the time.
How do I get to Craigmillar Castle by bus?
Take a Lothian bus to one of the two Craigmillar Castle Road stops, on Peffermill Road or Old Dalkeith Road; the castle is around a 15-minute walk from either, and Lothian Buses’ site will give you the route from your stop. The journey takes 20 to 30 minutes from the city centre depending on traffic. A single is £2.40 and the contactless daily cap is £5.70.
What are Craigmillar Castle’s opening times?
Historic Environment Scotland publishes two seasons: from 1 April to 30 September it opens daily at 09:30 with last entry at 16:30 and closing at 17:00; from 1 October to 31 March it opens daily at 10:00 and closes at 16:00, with last entry 30 minutes before closing (15:30) except from November to January, when it is 15:15. It is closed 25–28 December and 1–4 January. The winter last entry catches visitors out — arrive by 15:15 from November to January, or by 15:30 in October, February and March.
How much does it cost to get into Craigmillar Castle?
An adult ticket is £7.50 online or £8.50 in person. Concessions are £6 online (£6.80 in person) and children £3.50 (£4), and entry is free for Historic Environment Scotland members and Explorer Pass holders. Check the price before you travel, and buy from HES or at the gate — HES has warned about lookalike ticket sites.
Did Mary, Queen of Scots plot to kill Darnley at Craigmillar?
A plot was made at Craigmillar; whether Mary was party to it has never been established. She stayed here from 20 November to 7 December 1566, recovering from illness, and during that time nobles including William Maitland of Lethington and the earls of Bothwell, Argyll and Huntly signed what became known as the Craigmillar Bond, an agreement to be rid of Lord Darnley. Mary had made her unhappiness with Darnley plain but was not part of the conspiracy. Darnley was murdered in February 1567.
How long do you need at Craigmillar Castle?
Sixty to ninety minutes on site is right for most people — longer if you go up to the roof and take your time on the wall walk, shorter if the weather is against you. With 20 to 30 minutes of travel each way, the whole visit is a half-morning rather than a day out, which is why it pairs well with Duddingston or Arthur’s Seat.
Are there tunnels at Craigmillar Castle?
Stories about medieval tunnels running from Craigmillar circulate widely, but we found no confirmation from Historic Environment Scotland or any other authoritative source, and no sign that anything of the kind is part of the visitor route. Treat it as folklore. What genuinely is there and often missed is the P-shaped fishpond in the outer grounds, cut in the shape of the Preston family’s initial.
Is Craigmillar Castle suitable for children?
It is one of the better castles in the area for children who like climbing, because so much of it is open and you are not funnelled along a single route. The caveats are practical: stone spiral stairs, uneven floors, no lift, exposed roof level and no substantial café. It is a good dry-day visit and a poor wet-day one.
Can I visit Craigmillar Castle with an Explorer Pass?
Yes. Craigmillar is a Historic Environment Scotland property, so HES members and Explorer Pass holders enter free. If you have already bought a pass for Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle or Linlithgow Palace, Craigmillar becomes a no-cost addition and the case for the bus ride gets much stronger.
Where to Go Next
Craigmillar sits alongside our main Edinburgh Castle guide, which covers the fortress on the rock in full — and our guides to its history and what to see inside. For more of the city that visitors miss, try unusual things to do in Edinburgh and the free things worth doing. If Mary Stuart is the thread you are following, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is where the Rizzio murder happened and is a fifteen-minute walk from the bottom of the Royal Mile.
More Edinburgh Landmarks Off the Royal Mile
- The Scottish Parliament: free tours and the debating chamber
- Holyrood Park beyond Arthur’s Seat: every route
Photo Credits
Craigmillar Castle: Craigmillar Castle (38481815035) by Magnus Hagdorn, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
