Grassmarket Edinburgh is the city’s most distinctive medieval square — a wide cobbled rectangle in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, ringed by 16th-century pubs, modern restaurants, vintage shops, and a Saturday market that’s been running in some form since 1477. It is older than the Royal Mile’s tourist gauntlet, more atmospheric than Princes Street, and despite its central location, less crowded than visitors expect. For a single neighbourhood that captures the essence of medieval Edinburgh — pubs, market, history, dramatic geography — the Grassmarket is hard to beat.

This guide is a complete area manual for Grassmarket Edinburgh: the must-visit pubs, restaurants, the Saturday Farmers’ Market, every major historical site, the dark execution history, hidden gems, hotels nearby, and how to combine a Grassmarket visit with the rest of your Old Town itinerary. Information cross-checked against Edinburgh World Heritage records, Historic Environment Scotland, and decades of local pub knowledge.

What Is the Grassmarket?

The Grassmarket is a long, wide, cobbled market square at the southern foot of Edinburgh Castle Rock, in the heart of the Old Town. It is one of the oldest market areas in British history — written records of trading here date to around 1370 — and was officially chartered as a weekly market by King James III in 1477. Originally a livestock and grain market, it shifted over the centuries to general goods and is now a cosmopolitan mix of pubs, restaurants, hotels, shops, and a popular Saturday Farmers’ Market.

The square is approximately 400 metres long and 70 metres wide, ringed by a blend of medieval, Georgian, and 19th-century building façades. The most dramatic single view in the Grassmarket is looking up the rock face directly to the south wall of Edinburgh Castle, which towers nearly 100 metres above the square’s western end.

The neighbourhood “Grassmarket” today refers both to the square itself and to the broader surrounding area including West Port, Cowgate, Candlemaker Row, and the adjacent Victoria Street. For broader Old Town context, see our pillar guide to the Edinburgh Royal Mile and Old Town.

The Best Pubs in the Grassmarket

If Edinburgh is whisky’s spiritual capital, the Grassmarket is its parish church. The square contains some of the oldest pubs in Britain, several with documented histories stretching back over 500 years. The headline pubs:

1. The White Hart Inn

Established 1516. The oldest pub in the Grassmarket — and one of the oldest in Edinburgh. The White Hart has hosted everyone from Robert Burns (during his 1791 visit) to William Wordsworth (1803) and the body-snatchers Burke and Hare in the 1820s. The interior is dimly lit, wood-panelled, and almost entirely unmodernised. Real ales, simple Scottish food, regular live music. A pilgrimage stop for any visitor interested in literary or social history.

2. The Last Drop

Named for the public executions on the spot — the gallows stood in the Grassmarket from 1660 to 1784, and “the last drop” referred to either the noose or the final dram offered to the condemned. The pub today is cosy, dark-wooded, and serves traditional pub food. Less famous than the White Hart but typically less crowded.

3. Maggie Dickson’s

Named for Margaret “Maggie” Dickson, “Half-hangit Maggie” — a woman hanged in the Grassmarket in 1724 for concealing a pregnancy, who mysteriously revived several hours later in a coffin on the way to her funeral. Under Scottish law, she could not be re-executed (since she was technically already dead) and lived another 40 years. The pub commemorates her with story panels and old hangman memorabilia. Standard pub menu, lively atmosphere, popular with both locals and tourists.

4. The Black Bull

One of the larger Grassmarket pubs, with multiple rooms and an extensive whisky selection. Live music most weekends. Less historically themed than the White Hart but reliable.

5. Biddy Mulligan’s

Edinburgh’s most-loved Irish pub. Live Irish folk and trad sessions most evenings, Guinness on tap, vibrant atmosphere. Best for groups and tourists looking for energetic nightlife.

6. The Beehive Inn

An old coaching inn on the southwest corner of the Grassmarket, with a rooftop beer terrace giving direct views of Edinburgh Castle. The terrace is one of the best summer drink locations in central Edinburgh — and the kitchen does respectable burgers and Scottish staples.

7. The Bow Bar

Just off the Grassmarket on Victoria Street, the Bow Bar is one of Edinburgh’s serious whisky pubs — over 390 varieties of whisky stocked, plus a curated cask ale list. Smaller and quieter than the major Grassmarket pubs, this is where local whisky fans drink.

8. The Three Sisters

One of the largest pub-and-club venues in central Edinburgh, with a vast outdoor courtyard that becomes a sea of drinkers in summer. Less historically interesting than the medieval pubs but the courtyard atmosphere is unmatched.

The Best Restaurants in the Grassmarket

The Grassmarket’s restaurant scene has transformed over the past 20 years. Where once it was almost entirely pub-grub, it now hosts some of Edinburgh’s best mid-range and upscale restaurants:

9. Howies Victoria Street

A short walk up Victoria Street from the Grassmarket. Long-running Scottish restaurant with a strong reputation for pre-theatre dinners (good if you’re combining with the nearby Royal Lyceum). Modern Scottish menu — cullen skink, Scottish beef, seafood from the West Coast.

10. Scotts Kitchen

Sister restaurant to Howies, on Victoria Terrace overlooking the Grassmarket below. Outdoor terrace gives one of the best dining views in central Edinburgh. Scottish-led menu, polished service, mid-range pricing.

11. Petit Paris

A small, much-loved French bistro on the Grassmarket itself. Family-run since 2002. French classics — coq au vin, beef bourguignon, tarte Tatin — at fair prices. Reservations essential, especially weekends.

12. The Last Drop Restaurant

Beyond the pub, the Last Drop has a small dining room serving more substantial Scottish meals. Game and seafood feature prominently.

13. Dishoom Edinburgh

Just off the Grassmarket on St Andrew Square (technically not in the Grassmarket but adjacent). The Edinburgh outpost of the celebrated Bombay-café chain. Reservations essential 2-4 weeks ahead. Brunch, dinner, cocktails — universally excellent.

14. Mary’s Milk Bar

An exceptionally good gelato shop on the Grassmarket, with seasonally rotating Italian-style ice cream made in-house. Worth a visit even outside summer.

15. Oink

For lunch on the move, Oink is a small Edinburgh hog-roast chain. Cheap, hearty roast pork in a soft white roll with apple sauce or haggis.

The Saturday Grassmarket Market

The Grassmarket has hosted markets in some form since 1477, making it possibly the longest-continuously-trading market square in Britain. Today, the Saturday Grassmarket runs 10am to 5pm year-round (weather permitting), with around 50-70 stalls selling:

Fresh produce: Local Scottish farmers selling vegetables, fruit, eggs, cheese, smoked fish.
Street food: Hot food vendors with everything from Scottish pies to Vietnamese banh mi.
Crafts: Edinburgh-made ceramics, leatherwork, jewellery, prints.
Vintage: Clothing, books, vinyl records.
Food and drink products: Whisky, gin, jams, sauces, baked goods, Scottish-made chocolates.

The market is free to enter and browse. Most stalls are run by Scottish small businesses and many are seasonal. Visit between 11am and 1pm for the best stall variety; later afternoon brings price drops as vendors clear stock.

The Dark History of the Grassmarket

Beneath the lively pub-and-market atmosphere lies one of the bleakest histories in Edinburgh. The Grassmarket was the city’s official public execution site from 1660 to 1784. More than 100 Covenanters — Presbyterian religious dissidents — were hanged here during the “Killing Times” of the 1660s and 1680s. A small memorial stone in the eastern end of the square marks the site of the gallows.

Famous executions in the Grassmarket include:

The Covenanter Martyrs (1661-1688): More than 100 Presbyterian dissidents executed during the Restoration period.

Captain John Porteous (1736): Lynched by an Edinburgh mob after his sentence was commuted by Queen Caroline. The Porteous Riot is the central event in Walter Scott’s novel “The Heart of Midlothian.”

Margaret “Maggie” Dickson (1724): Hanged for child murder, revived in her coffin on the way to her grave. Edinburgh’s most famous “half-hangit” survivor.

The body-snatchers Burke and Hare operated principally in the wider Grassmarket area in 1827-28, murdering 16 people and selling their bodies to anatomy lecturers at Edinburgh University. Their old residence on Tanner’s Close (now demolished) was just off the Grassmarket. William Burke was hanged in the Lawnmarket in 1829; his skeleton remains on display at the University of Edinburgh’s Anatomy Museum.

The Grassmarket Vaults — a series of underground stone chambers beneath the modern South Bridge nearby — have a similarly dark reputation and feature in Mercat Tours’ ghost walks.

Adjacent Streets to Explore

Victoria Street

Curving up from the Grassmarket to George IV Bridge, Victoria Street is one of Edinburgh’s most photographed streets — colourful Georgian shopfronts that some claim inspired J.K. Rowling’s Diagon Alley. Boutique shops, independent gift stores, and several restaurants. For more, see our companion guide on Victoria Street Edinburgh (publishing soon).

West Port

The road continuing west from the Grassmarket. Mostly modern but with a strong selection of bookshops, including West Port Books and the legendary Edinburgh Books.

Cowgate

The road that runs east from the Grassmarket through the Old Town, dropping below South Bridge. Edinburgh’s main clubbing district at night — Cabaret Voltaire, the Bongo Club, Sneaky Pete’s, and others all open here. A tougher edge than the upper Royal Mile.

Candlemaker Row

Climbs from the Grassmarket up to Greyfriars Kirkyard. Greyfriars Bobby’s statue stands at the top — a small statue of the Skye Terrier who supposedly kept vigil at his master’s grave for 14 years from 1858 to 1872. The most touched dog statue in Britain.

King’s Stables Road

Skirts the south wall of Castle Rock. Quiet, less touristed, and gives unusual angles on the castle.

Hotels Near the Grassmarket

Sleeping near the Grassmarket gives you direct access to one of the best-pub-and-restaurant neighbourhoods in central Edinburgh. Notable options:

The Cold Town House: A modern hotel and rooftop bar overlooking the Grassmarket, with the closest rooftop view of Edinburgh Castle of any hotel in the city.

Apex Grassmarket: Mid-range, modern, with a popular restaurant and a rooftop pool with castle view.

Hotel du Vin Edinburgh: A short walk from the Grassmarket on Bristo Place. Boutique luxury with a wine-focused restaurant.

Radisson Collection Royal Mile: Up the hill near the Royal Mile. Five-minute walk to the Grassmarket.

Hostel Lab and various Old Town hostels: Budget options abound in the area.

For full neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood accommodation analysis, see our pillar guide on where to stay in Edinburgh.

Walking from the Grassmarket: What’s Nearby

Edinburgh Castle (5 minutes uphill): Walk up Victoria Street, then George IV Bridge, then the Royal Mile. The castle is at the top.

Royal Mile (3 minutes uphill): Walk up Victoria Street to George IV Bridge, then turn east into the High Street.

Greyfriars Kirkyard (5 minutes via Candlemaker Row): Greyfriars Bobby, the Covenanters’ Prison, and one of Edinburgh’s most atmospheric graveyards.

National Museum of Scotland (8 minutes via Forrest Road): Free admission, world-class museum, rooftop terrace.

The Meadows (10 minutes south): Edinburgh’s largest central park, popular for picnics in summer.

The University of Edinburgh (10 minutes south): Old College, the McEwan Hall, and the broader university quarter.

Tips for Visiting the Grassmarket

Visit on a Saturday for the market. The market is the single best reason to time your visit for a Saturday between 10am and 4pm.

Watch for cobblestones. The Grassmarket and surrounding streets are heavily cobbled. Wear sensible shoes.

Avoid the major weekend evening (Friday/Saturday after 8pm) if you want a calmer experience. The pubs become crowded and noisy. Weekday evenings or weekend afternoons are quieter.

Use the Grassmarket as a tactical alternative to the Royal Mile. When the high street is overcrowded, the Grassmarket offers the same medieval feel with fewer tour groups.

Climb to Victoria Terrace. Above the Grassmarket on the south side, Victoria Terrace gives a beautiful elevated view of the square, the castle, and the church spires.

Don’t miss the Covenanters Memorial. A small stone in the eastern end of the square commemorates the 100+ Presbyterian martyrs hanged here in the 17th century.

Sample Grassmarket Itineraries

The Grassmarket Saturday Morning

10am: Coffee at Mary’s Milk Bar. Walk the Saturday market. Browse the produce, crafts, and vintage stalls. Buy lunch at one of the food vendors. Climb Candlemaker Row for a 1pm lunch on the steps of Greyfriars Kirkyard. Done by 2pm.

The Grassmarket Pub Crawl

4pm: Start at the White Hart Inn. Move to The Last Drop. Climb to the Bow Bar (Victoria Street). Stop at Maggie Dickson’s. Finish at the Beehive’s rooftop terrace at sunset. Dinner at Petit Paris. Total: 4-5 hours.

The Grassmarket Day-and-Night

10am: Saturday market. Lunch at a market stall. 1pm: Walk up to Greyfriars Kirkyard. 2pm: Down Candlemaker Row, into the Grassmarket again. 4pm: Coffee and pastries at Mary’s Milk Bar. 5pm: Pub crawl. 8pm: Dinner at Petit Paris. 10pm: Live music at Biddy Mulligan’s. 11pm: Late-night drink at the Beehive’s rooftop.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is the Grassmarket in Edinburgh?

The Grassmarket is in the Old Town, directly south of Edinburgh Castle. From Princes Street, walk south up Cockburn Street or the Mound, cross George IV Bridge, and descend Victoria Street into the Grassmarket. Total walk: 10-15 minutes from central Princes Street.

Is the Grassmarket worth visiting?

Yes. The Grassmarket is one of Edinburgh’s most distinctive medieval squares, with some of the city’s oldest pubs (the White Hart Inn dates to 1516), a Saturday Farmers’ Market that’s been running in some form since 1477, and the dramatic backdrop of Edinburgh Castle towering directly above. It is one of the best central neighbourhoods for Old Town atmosphere without the heaviest Royal Mile crowds.

What is the Grassmarket famous for?

The Grassmarket is famous for: 1) Being one of the oldest market squares in Britain (charter 1477); 2) A long history of public executions, including over 100 Presbyterian Covenanters during the Killing Times; 3) Some of Edinburgh’s oldest pubs (White Hart Inn 1516); 4) The body-snatchers Burke and Hare who operated nearby; 5) The lively Saturday market and pub scene today.

What time does the Grassmarket Saturday Market open?

The weekly Grassmarket Saturday Farmers’ Market runs approximately 10am to 5pm year-round, weather permitting. Best variety is between 11am and 1pm. Some stallholders close earlier in winter.

Are there pubs in the Grassmarket?

Yes — the Grassmarket has one of the highest densities of historic pubs in Edinburgh. The White Hart Inn (1516), the Last Drop, Maggie Dickson’s, the Black Bull, the Beehive, and Biddy Mulligan’s are all on the square itself. The Bow Bar is just up Victoria Street.

What is the best pub in the Grassmarket?

For history, the White Hart Inn (1516). For atmosphere and Irish music, Biddy Mulligan’s. For whisky, the Bow Bar (just up Victoria Street). For a rooftop view of Edinburgh Castle, the Beehive Inn’s terrace. Each delivers a different version of Grassmarket pub culture.

Is the Grassmarket safe at night?

Generally yes. The Grassmarket is well-lit, well-trodden, and active throughout the evening. Standard urban precautions apply. The neighbouring Cowgate becomes a clubbing district after 11pm with rougher edges; the Grassmarket itself remains relatively calm.

Where can I park near the Grassmarket?

Castle Terrace Car Park (multistorey, 5-minute walk uphill) and Q-Park Castle Terrace are the closest paid options. On-street parking in central Edinburgh is severely restricted; expect to pay £4-5 per hour where available.

Can you walk from the Grassmarket to Edinburgh Castle?

Yes, though the direct route involves a steep cobbled climb. From the Grassmarket, walk up Victoria Street to George IV Bridge (5 minutes), then turn west onto the Royal Mile (5 minutes), then up Castlehill to the castle gate (5 minutes). Total: 15 minutes uphill.

What’s the difference between Grassmarket and Royal Mile?

The Royal Mile is the historic spine of Edinburgh’s Old Town, running east-west from Edinburgh Castle to Holyroodhouse along a single ridge. The Grassmarket is a separate medieval market square just below the castle’s southern flank — a sister neighbourhood to the Royal Mile, connected by Victoria Street and several closes. Together they form the heart of the Old Town.

Final Thoughts

The Grassmarket is Edinburgh’s other Old Town — older than the Royal Mile in some ways, more authentic in others, and free of much of the high street’s tourist density. A visit here delivers some of the city’s best pubs, restaurants, and small shops; a Saturday market with 540+ years of continuous trading history; and a cobbled square in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle that retains its medieval character better than almost anywhere else in the city.

For more, see our pillar guide on the Edinburgh Royal Mile and Old Town, our companion piece on Edinburgh closes and wynds, our piece on Edinburgh food and dining, and our overarching guide on things to do in Edinburgh. Then go — the Grassmarket has been doing this for 540 years and shows no sign of slowing down.